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| ATLANTA, GA USA |
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PRODUCT INFORMATION DESIGN/BUILD PHOTO GALLERY ABOUT US
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Frequently Asked Questions KILN DRIED vs. AIR DRIED Kiln drying, as an standard industry practice, is used to make wood more stable by changing it's dimensional properties and to prevent moisture loss relative to the application. Hardwood flooring in the U.S. is typically dried to a moisture content of 6-8%. Wood used in applications such as cabinetry, furniture and trim could be dried even lower. Elements to consider when using kiln dried wood outside is the moisture content of the wood and if the wood susceptible to moisture gain. Kiln dried pressure treated Pine decking is gaining popularity as a much stable alternative to wet pressure treated decking that can bow and warp with natural moisture loss.
All air dried/green lumber will shrink with moisture loss and tropical hardwoods are no exception. The dimensional change can be drastic relative to the wood's moisture content, climate and time of year when installing. Furthermore, 5/4 (1") decking will shrink more than 1x (3/4") decking. Acclimating wood on a jobsite is not completely effective to mitigate further moisture loss. After installation, extremely dense woods such as Ipe and Cumaru will not gain any significant amount of moisture to cause expansion or changes in dimension. In other words, dense hardwoods such as Ipe will lose what moisture already exists in the wood, but will not gain moisture and expand!
When using products that are installed with pre-determined gaps, it is important that the moisture content is at or near the level it will ultimately settle. When using pre-grooved decking with hidden clip fastening, the pre-determined gap is roughly 1/8". Air dried/green pre-grooved decking will shrink and cause the 1/8" gap to widen thus revealing more of the hidden clip. Kiln dried pre-grooved decking, in the case of BannerElk's, is dried to a moisture content of roughly 13% or to a pre-stable point of where the wood could ultimately settle. Moisture gain is non-existent. When using Tongue and Groove porch flooring, there are no intended gaps as this type of product is meant to be installed tight together and ultimately should stay tight. Air dried/green T&G porch flooring will shrink after installation and cause small gaps between every plank. BannerElk's kiln dried T&G porch flooring is dried to a moisture content of 12% and will not shrink when installed under a roof application. Areas such as outside edges and corners that receive prolonged sun exposure could become susceptible to slight shrinking as further moisture loss below the 12% could occur.
Installation & Maintenance Guide INTRODUCTION Ipe is a very unique decking product with unique installation methods not commonly used for other types of decking such as composites and softwoods. Below are tips/best practices for ensuring proper installation. These tips/guidelines are to be used in conjunction with lumber purchased from the BannerElk Trading Company.
JOB SITE STORAGE Ipe decking can be stacked outdoors, but should be kept directly off solid surfaces at least 4" and should be covered to avoid pre-mature fading. Air dried decking should be allowed to acclimate prior to installation to minimize extensive shrinking after installed. Air dried Ipe decking will ultimately lose moisture, but will not gain moisture and expand. Average acclimation period depends on the moisture content of the wood and climate/temperature, but a rule of thumb is 2-3 weeks. For best results, decking can be placed across framing members for maximum acclimation.
Kiln dried items such as BannerElk Tongue & Groove porch flooring and Pre-grooved decking do not require acclimation.
SAFETY As with any construction project, proper safety equipment and protective clothing should be worn. Ipe decking is heavier and more dense than most other woods. Do not try to lift similar quantities of Ipe decking compared to traditional softwoods. Most domestic and imported hardwood dust is carcinogenic and can cause breathing problems. Dust masks are recommended when cutting or sanding hardwoods.
TOOLS Carbide tipped saw blades with fewer teeth (16 teeth on 7-1/4" blades) stay cooler, reduce friction when cutting, and stay sharper longer. When using a miter box saw, we recommend 10" or 12" saws with roughly 24 teeth on 10" blades and 32 teeth on 12" blades. Click here for more information.
Drilling Ipe can be a challenge with improper drill bits. High speed Steel tends to fatigue quickly which causes breaking and tend to dull faster. Titanium Nitride coated drill bits initially perform well, but as the coating wears so does performance. Cobalt alloy drill bits are the most effective and longest lasting when drilling into Ipe. When drilling, periodically lift the bit out of the hole to remove shavings.
Board benders such as the BoWrench are highly effective in straightening crooked boards. These types of tools are typically self locking and can speed up production as another person is not needed to hold a board while another fastens.
END SEALING Often a subject of debate among some contractors, end sealing with a Paraffin wax based product or equal is imperative to minimize end checking. Checking (tiny cracks) occurs in all wood species upon moisture loss. Most every hardwood decking mill waxes lumber ends prior to shipping. For best results, wax fresh cut ends immediately after cutting. A small folded rag lightly dipped into the wax product and dabbed on the cut end will work the best. Avoid waxing the surface of the deck board as this will cause staining. Excess wax on the surface can be scraped off with a putty knife and then lightly sanded only in this area. When ripping boards, wax is not required on the straight grain, but only cross cut ends. Oil based U.V. inhibitor products are not effective in preventing moisture loss at the ends.
FASTENING Stainless Steel fasteners are imperative when fastening Ipe. It's high level of Tannic Acid will cause a dark brown to black reaction stain when fastening with Zinc coated fasteners such as galvanized screws. Coatings, found on most other types of non-Stainless fasteners, can separate from their Carbon Steel body when driven into a dense material such as Ipe. Once the coating is removed, bare Carbon Steel is left in direct contact with Ipe and will also cause staining. As a general rule, Ipe will outlast most any decking product currently on the market. It is in the best interest of the project to use fasteners that can maintain a similar life cycle.
Face screwing is the most economical and efficient means of installing Ipe decking. Pre-drilling is necessary to avoid wood splitting and screw breakage. Screws such as TRIMTITE™ can be installed with relative ease and offer a very inconspicuous look due to it's 3/16" head diameter. Larger head diameter screws such as Decktite will require the use of a countersink that will pre-drill the pilot hole and counter-bore for the head.
Plugging is a means of concealing fastener heads by deeply countersinking the screw to accommodate a wooden dowel or tapered plug, most often from the same wood specie being fastened. This method requires a great deal of labor to install and often results in the plugs being as conspicuous as the screws heads. Wood species such as Ipe have a wide variation of color. It is often difficult to find wooden plugs that will directly match the color and grain characteristics of the board being fastened/plugged.
Concealed clip fastening systems such as Invisi-Fast® are an effective means of obscuring the fastening method and eliminating surface breach. This type of system requires purchasing edge-grooved decking to accommodate the biscuit or cutting a groove/slot into the deck board's edge over a joist.
Under-mount bracket systems that require screwing from underneath are not recommended. These systems do not directly anchor deck boards to the joist. Instead, an L shaped bracket is fastened to the joist and the deck boards are held in place by screwing under the horizontal portion of the bracket. Any movement/shrinking in the typical wet pressure treated joist and Ipe can cause failure.
Hand nailing into Ipe is virtually impossible and shooting nails with pneumatic nail guns are not recommended. This will cause the wood to split either after impact or when the wood loses moisture after complete acclimation. Avoid the following method that is circulating between some online message boards: Gluing Ipe to the joists with marine grade adhesive and shooting with finish nails is not recommended and will fail.
GAPPING Air dried (non-kiln dried) Ipe supplied by BannerElk Trading requires minimal gapping of 1/16" side-to-side and no gaps end-to-end on butt joints. Expect shrinking relative to the wood's moisture content, climate and U.V. exposure. Kiln dried products such as BannerElk's Ipe T&G Porch Flooring and Pre-grooved decking products require no gapping.
SANDING DO NOT sand the entire surface of your Ipe deck if you plan on applying an oil based U.V. inhibitor. Sanding will remove the nap from the surface eliminating any penetration from the oil. Spot sanding where necessary is acceptable.
SOLID SURFACE INSTALLATIONS OVER SLEEPERS Ipe, like all wood species, require ventilation and proper drainage underneath to avoid cupping and extensive movement. Ipe should never be attached directly to a solid surface such as concrete, existing decking, or rubberized membranes over plywood. Instead, a sleeper frame system that acts as a buffer between the solid surface and the Ipe decking should be used. Sleepers are generally constructed from 2x4 or larger pressure treated dimensional lumber that is placed on edge to allow air flow and drainage. The solid surface underneath should be constructed with a pitch to allow for proper water drainage. Any standing water underneath an Ipe deck could cause the decking to cup. Larger side-to-side gaps are also recommended to increase ventilation.
CLEANING Don't assume that new wood is clean. Most any deck cleaner is sufficient for cleaning, but non-bleach cleaners are preferred. Cleaners with Sodium Percarbonate are highly effective for a thorough cleaning, but hard to find. A light scrub with a medium to stiff bristle deck brush is highly recommended to remove ground-in dirt. Pressure washing works well to strip old sealer residue and a high PSI will not harm or burr Ipe's resilient surface.
OILING/SEALING Oiling, often referred to as sealing, your Ipe deck is not required. Ipe, like all other wood species, will weather to a gray color with prolong exposure to the Sun's U.V. rays. An oil inhibitor that is designed for hardwood decks can be applied to slow down the fading process.
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The installation guidelines and tips shown above are strictly for the use of customers that have purchased lumber and decking products from the BannerElk Trading Company, Inc. The BannerElk Trading Company assumes no liability and disclaims all warranties, whether expressed or implied, including, but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, and non-infringement. It is the sole responsibility of the user, owner, or installer to test each product relative to it's application and comply with all Federal, State, and local building codes and regulations. |
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| Atlanta, Georgia USA |
1-877-909-8575 |
GA (in State) 770-953-0303 |
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